the red camel trip

I am on the move, on the bike again. Started a few days ago actually, after flying into Sevilla. If I see a chance to escape an unpredictable Dutch winter, I go for it.

On last year’s Iberian roadtrip (by car) I passed Tarifa, the port to Tanger, Morocco. That got stuck in my mind and after combining and evaluating everything I booked a flight into Sevilla just over a week ago, to bike Jerez, Cadiz, Tarifa, cross over to Tanger and tour Morocco via Casablanca, Agadir and Marakech, some 1600 kilometres/1000 miles I figured. As my made-to-measure carbon printed Superstrata bike finally arrived I was looking forward to take it for the trip. Hopefully I am able to show my ‘red camel’ the desert…

The red camel bike is kind-of an experimental bike and as such not really designed for a bikepacking trip, so I started adjusting. The crankset had to be changed – as it was defunct – I went for a proven leather Brooks saddle, changed the steer, the grips, changed the pedals into cleat pedals, mounted indestructable, slightly oversized Schwalbe tyres, added a made to measure luggage rack (thanks Bert!), headlight clamp, smartphone mount – as I use the phone for navigation – and a few more things which I probably forgot to mention. I will travel light, (bike) clothing for the 3 weeks is less than 4 kilos, including the bag.

Flying out of Amsterdam on a Sunday morning went like a breeze, I was through all checks in less than 40 minutes, that included checking the bike!

Arrival Sevilla was the same. Prepared the bike, as they want you to take the pedals off, turn the steer 90 degrees and deflate tyres. Transavia is happy (so am I) with a plastic bike cover for packing, KLM wants a cardboard box which is a nuisance. And costly.. Anyway, before realizing – as it was only an hour biking to downtown Sevilla – I was enjoying lunch and ready for 2 days of sightseeing. I travel together with Gabrielle, my better half, and she would go her own way later in the week. This type of biking is not for her..

Next day was planned for Cadiz via Jerez, 125k. Did not leave very early, sunrise was only at 8 o’clock. Joined the Sevilla rush hour, biking between bank men on electric steps in Armani suits over the many bike paths and viaducts.

Foggy morning though, cycling rural roads which got so rural that it stopped my bike: mud clogged up everywhere and everything, wheels, gear, brakes. Struggling for a few hours until finally a truck passed by, the first of the day. They were mecanics from the Electric Light Company on a maintenance trip.

They gave us- bike and myself – an 8 kilometer ride into the civilised world. Having arrived a guy showed up with a hose to clean the bike; it took him nearly half an hour to rinse all the fatty and already hardened clay away and wettened more than I had wanted☹️

Worst of all: my iphone had ran out of power as it did not charge any more because of moist detection during the mud trip. No navigation. So I followed the national route – 80 k – to Jerez, on the signs. And no more pictures either ☹️

Sun was already down for a few hours when I arrived Jerez. Without navigation I did not want to traverse the national park to Cadiz where Gabrielle expected me. No working phone meant I had disappeared for the world, I could not be traced either. The only digital trace I left were the payments I made for coffee and water at gas stations along the way and which showed up on our common bank account.. Decided to cheat and I headed for the Jerez station to board the train for Cadiz. Bikes travel free.. After an uneventful 40 minute ride with twelve stops, I let Gabrielle know – with my payment for coffee – in which bar I was and where we could meet. We had dinner at 10, even late for Spanish standards.

drying out my shoes from the previous day

After an easy sightseeing day in Cadiz, visiting the impressive underground remains of the 3000 year old Fenician settlement, we concluded with a great tuna dinner.

I continued to Tarifa, a smooth ride through some hilly terrain , against the wind. Tarifa is a surfers hotspot – hence the wind – stretching for a few kilometers along the coast.

It has an old center, small, and is port of departure for the 42 knot fast ferry across the Gibraltar strait to Tanger.

Tarifa is also famous for its whale watching: dolphins, orcas (june – september, in case you are interested) and humpbacks. The Strait is even used by great white sharks to traverse to the Mediterranean.

huge mural

That evening I skipped the small ticket line and booked on line, convenient, that’s what I thought. Did not work which I found, when I checked in. Obtained a new ticket at 0845, to sail at 9.

Tanger arrival

On arrival bought a Maroccann sim card, cycled up to Decathlon to get new bidons. Tanger traffic is chaotic and traffic rules are used as they fit you. My style🙂 I booked the Rembrandt hotel, – Rembrandt, of all names – and spend the rest of the day as a tourist in Tanger.